The Agora (market) was Athens'
meeting place in ancient times, the focal point of administrative, commercial,
political and social life. All roads led to this bustling and crowded place,
where Socrates once expounded his philosophy and, later, where St Paul disputed daily in an attempt to win
converts to Christianity.
The site was first developed in the 6th century BC. It was devastated by
the Persians in 480 BC, but a new agora was built in its place almost
immediately. It was flourishing by Pericles' time and
continued to do so until AD 267, when it was destroyed by the Herulians, a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia.
A good place to begin an exploration of the site is in the reconstructed
Stoa of Attalos, originally
built between 159 and 138BC; its expensive shops were a popular stamping ground
for moneyed Athenians. It houses the Agora
Museum, where there's a
model of the Agora upstairs along with a collection of finds from the site. The
Temple of Hephaestus, on the western edge of the
Agora, dates from 449BC and is the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece.
To the northeast of the temple are the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of
the places where Socrates spoke to the masses.
Near the southern entrance of the market is the Church of the Holy Apostles,
which was built in the early 11th century to commemorate St Paul and his teachings. Have a look at the
Byzantine frescoes inside
Transport
underground rail: Monastiraki,
Thissio; enter Agora from Polygnotou
Tues-Sun 08:30 - 15:00
May-Sep: 08:00 - 19:00 ; Nov-Mar: 08:00 - 17:00
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Address
underground rail: Akropoli
religious/spiritual, archaeological site
The Temple of Olympian Zeus is is the
largest in Greece.
The temple was begun in the 6th century BC by Peisistratos,
but was abandoned for lack of funds. Various other leaders had stabs at
completing the temple, but it was left to Hadrian to complete the work in AD
131. It took more than 700 years to build.
Hadrian put a colossal gold and ivory statue of Zeus in the cella and, in typically immodest fashion, placed an equally
large one of himself next to it.
Hadrian's Arch once linked a thoroughfare past the Lysikrates Monument along the Street of Tripods,
where tripod trophies were dedicated to Dionysos by
winners of ancient drama contests. Made of Pentelic
marble, it was erected in honour of Hadrian in AD132, after the consecration of
the temple.
The foundations of a small Doric temple dedicated to the ancient cult of
Olympian Zeus (590-560BC) also lie on the site.
Theatre of Dionysos
Address
Dionysiou Areopagitou, Makrigianni
underground rail: Akropoli
May-Sep: 08:00 - 19:30 ;
Nov-Mar: 08:00 - 17:00
archaeological site
The importance of theatre in the Athenian city-state can be gauged from
the dimensions of the enormous Theatre of Dionysos on
the southeastern slope of the Acropolis.
During the golden age of the 5th century BC, dramas by Aeschylus, Sophocles and Aristophanes were commissioned for the Festival
of Great Dionysia.
The theatre was reconstructed in stone and marble by Lycurgus
between 342 and 326BC. The auditorium could seat 17,000; of an original 64
tiers of seats, about 20 tiers still survive. The 2nd-century reliefs at the rear of the stage depict the exploits of Dionysos.
The two hefty, hunched-up selini were
worshippers of the mythical Selinos - he of the
oversized phallus - who charged up mountains in lecherous pursuit of nymphs. He
mentored Dionysos with whatever energy he had left over.
Plaka & Anafiotika
Address
underground rail: Syntagma, Akropoli
The historic neighbourhood under the Acropolis retains its charm despite
being overrun by tourists in summer. Head beyond the tourist drag, however, and
you'll find the Anafiotika quarter, one of the most
picturesque and quiet pockets of the city. In this village-like labyrinth of
quiet, narrow, windy streets, bougainvillea cascade over whitewashed Cycladic-style cube houses while bright pots of colour
decorate the balconies and rooftops. Apart from the forever-reclining cats,
washing hanging in the breeze is often the only evidence of habitation.
The houses were built by tradesmen from the small island
of Anafi,
brought in to build the king's palace during the renovation of Athens
after Independence.
The neighbourhood is still home to the descendants of these original Anafi stonemasons, although the population has also been
supplemented by artists and intellectuals.
Plaka has many meticulously restored neoclassical houses,
and more of the derelict old homes are being revived.
The 17th-century church of Agios Georgios
(St George of the Rock) marks the southern border of Anafiotika,
with the 1847 church
of Agios Simeon
situated to the north. The neoclassical building on the corner of Theorias and Klepsidra is the old
university of Athens, now a museum.
National Archaeological Museum
Address
28 Oktovriou-Patission
44, Exarhia
underground rail: Viktoria
museum
One of the world's great museums, the National
Archaeological Museum
houses the most important finds from Greece's archaeological sites.
Straight ahead from the entrance foyer is the museum's tour de force,
the collection of Mycenaean Antiquities, which is filled with gleaming gold.
The star attraction is the Mask of Agamemnon.
The Neolithic Collection includes finds from Thessaly,
as well as pottery, figurines and jewellery from Troy. The Cycladic
Collection includes a lifesize Cycladic
figurine from Amorgos (the largest ever found), while
other rooms hold archaic, classical, late classical, Hellenistic and Roman
period sculpture, bronze and pottery.
Other exquisite objects of antiquity include elaborately decorated mummy
cases. Of particular note is the Thira Exhibition,
consisting of spectacular Minoan frescoes unearthed at Akrotiri
on the island of Santorini.
Other masterpieces include a marble statue from Delos of Aphrodite with
Pan and Eros circa 100BC, and a bronze statue believed to be Poseidon or Zeus
dated to 460BC. There is also an amusing sculpture of Aphrodite raising her
sandal to ward off the frisky Pan.
Museum of Cycladic & Ancient Greek Art
Address
Neofytou Douka 4, Kolonaki
underground rail: Evangelismos
Mon, Thu-Fri 10:00 - 16:00
, Wed 10:00 - 20:00 , Sat 10:00 - 15:00
museum
This exceptional private museum houses the biggest private collection of
Cycladic art in the world. The original building was
custom-built for the collection, and the finds are beautifully displayed and
well labelled. Although the exhibits cover all periods from Cycladic
to Roman times, the emphasis is on the Cycladic era
from 3000 BC to 2000 BC.
The 230 exhibits include the marble figurines with folded arms that
inspired many 20th-century artists with their simplicity and purity of form.
The Cycladic collection, on the 1st floor, includes
life-size marble statues, tiny figurines and pottery from the civilisation that
flourished in the Aegean during the Bronze
Age.
The museum was extended and now spreads across the 19th-century mansion
next door and an adjacent wing used for temporary exhibitions.
National Gardens
Address
underground rail: Syntagma
The delightfully shady National
Gardens, featuring
subtropical trees, winding paths and ornamental ponds with waterfowl, are a
nice refuge from the heat of the summer months. Besides the exhibits of the Botanical Museum, there's a children's playground,
a duck pond and a cafe, which makes a pleasant spot for a break.
Acropolis
Address
entry from Dionysiou Areopagitou or Theorias, Anafiotika
underground rail: Akropoli
archaeological site, religious/spiritual
The Acropolis is the most important ancient site in the Western world.
Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from almost everywhere within
the city. Its monuments of Pentelic marble gleam
white in the midday sun and gradually take on a honey hue as the sun sinks,
while at night they hover above the city brilliantly illuminated. The sudden
glimpse of this magnificent sight cannot fail to lift your spirits.
Pericles set about transforming the Acropolis into a city of
temples after being informed by the Delphic oracle in 510 BC that it should
become a province of the gods. Unsurpassed in grace and harmony, the Parthenon
is the largest Doric temple ever completed in Greece, the only one built
completely (apart from its wooden roof) of Pentelic
marble.
The Parthenon had a dual purpose - to house the giant statue of Athena
commissioned by Pericles and to serve as the treasury
for the tribute money that had been moved from Delos.
It was built on the site of four earlier temples, all dedicated to the worship
of Athena.
Beside the Parthenon is the Erechtheion,
immediately recognisable for its much-photographed Caryatids, the six maidens
who take the place of columns. The Acropolis
Museum houses a
collection of sculptures and reliefs from the site.
A Top Day in Athens
I'm not a huge morning person normally, but it's worth getting up early
in Athens, as
most of the ancient sites close at 15:00 . Though I can't do antiquities without first stopping at one of my
favourite cafes for a Greek coffee, nice and strong. I take it sketo (without sugar) and it sets me up for the
morning. Of course, I'm going to visit the Acropolis during my stay, and will
spend at least a day at the fabulous National
Archaeological Museum,
but today I have other sights in mind. I head straight for the Ancient Agora,
where I admire the noble temple of Hephaestus and
browse the museum, especially the fascinating ceramic fragments once used for
the ostracism (exile) of unpopular politicians (ah, those were the days!). The
pretty Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles also catches my eye. Then I head
along pedestrianised Ermou,
to the Keramikos (once the burial place of ancient Athens), enjoying the
Acropolis views. After a light lunch on a terrace in nearby Thisio,
I jump on the metro and head to Kolonaki to one of my
favourites: the Museum
of Cycladic Art,
with its curious and beautiful ancient figurines. While I'm in the area, I take
advantage of the views by heading up Lykavittos Hill.
It's a pretty hot day, so the funicular to the top is the easy option. The
views at the top are stunning, and the walk down through scented woods is very
pleasant. Then I head into touristy but charming Plaka
for a coffee at the excellent Café Plaka. Nearby is
one of my favourite dinner spots, Taverna tou Psara. But today I have other
ideas for the evening meal and head to fashionable Psirí,
a suburb transformed from seedy to trendy in the blink of an eye. I do as the
locals do and eat late, after There are dozens
of intriguing places to choose from and, handily, I'm right in the middle of
some of the city's most cutting-edge nightlife for late night frolics!
Orientation
The city is bounded on three sides by Mt Parnitha,
Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos.
Within Athens
there are no less than eight hills, of which the Acropolis and Lykavittos are the most prominent. The hills provide a
peaceful respite from the clamour of the city, and offer stunning views to the
glistening waters of the Saronic
Gulf, the city's boundary on the south side. The streets of Athens (clearly signposted in Greek and English) now meld
imperceptibly into Piraeus,
the city's port.
Just about everything of interest to the traveller is within a small
area surrounding Plateia Syntagmatos
(Syntagma
Square). This area is bounded by the districts of Plaka to the south, Monastiraki
to the west, Kolonaki to the east and Omonia to the north.
Plateia Syntagmatos is dominated by
the old Royal Palace and is the beating heart of the
business district, with luxury hotels, banks and airline offices. Plaka, nestled below the Acropolis, is the old Turkish
quarter and virtually all that existed when Athens
was declared the capital of independent Greece. Though Plaka
is packed with tourists in high season, it's also one of the prettiest and most
atmospheric areas of the city. Monastiraki is the
market district and a fascinating part of town to wander. Psiri,
nearby, is brimming with stylish cafes and bars and makes a great place for
dinner or bar-hopping. Kolonaki, a classy residential
area tucked in under Lykavittos Hill, is full of
trendy boutiques, art galleries and cafes. Omonia, a
seedy zone known for its pickpockets, drug addicts and prostitutes is a busy
transport hub.
Getting
There, Getting
Around
Getting There
The state-of-the-art international airport is the primary gateway to Athens for most visitors,
and - for transit passengers - it even has its own museum! In addition to
flight, a well-run bus system, trains and ferries from the islands and Italy are also
popular methods of arrival.
Piraeus is 10km southwest of central Athens it is the
busiest port in Greece
with a bewildering array of departures and destinations, international and
domestic. The largest of its three harbours is the Great
Harbour (Megas
Limin), on the western side of the Piraeus
peninsula, which is the departure point for most ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran
services; Zea Marina (Limin
Zeas) and the picturesque Mikrolimano
(Small Harbour), lie on the eastern side. Make
sure you know exactly where your vessel is leaving from.
bus
There are two main intercity bus stations:
Terminal A, about 7km (4.3mi) northwest of Omonia at Kifissou 100 and Terminal B, 5km (3mi) north Omonia off Liossion. International
coaches from Albania, Bulgaria and Turkey
arrive and depart from Peloponnese
train station.
train
Trains to other parts of Greece
leave from Larisis station and Peloponnese station, conveniently located near
each other about 1km (0.6mi) northeast of Plateia Omonias. Trains also depart Larisis
for Turkey, Bulgaria, the Former
Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and northern Europe.
water
Ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans bound for a
bewildering array of islands depart from Athens'
nearby port, Piraeus.
For the latest departure information, pick up a weekly ferry schedule from the
tourist office in central Athens.
Services to Italy leave from
Patra, three and a half hours west of Athens and Igoumenitsa, in northwestern Greece. Weekly services go to Cyprus and Israel
from Piraeus.
Boats to Turkey leave only
from the Greek Islands. Port taxes are included in
ticket prices and vary according to the destination.
Getting Around
The sparkling new metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens relatively
painless, and the extension of the whole network should ease the city's
notorious traffic congestion. Athens
also has an extensive bus and trolley (electric cable bus) network that was
upgraded for the 2004 Olympics.
bus
The blue and white Suburban Buses operate every 15 minutes from
05:00-24:00. They are inexpensive, usually comfortable and relatively fast.
tram
Cable trolleybuses run from 05:00-24:00. You can buy tickets from most periptera (kiosks) and validate them on the orange
machines inside the vehicles.
underground rail
Many of Athens'
ancient sites are within easy walking distance of Syntagma
and many museums are close by on Vasilissis Sofias, so chances are you won't have much need for public
transport. But if you do, you'll find that the city's upgraded metro system has
made getting around the centre of Athens
far a breeze. Journeys that used to take an hour above ground take just minutes
below ground.
