This glossary documents common terms found in the knitting
industry.
Applique
The knitting of selected areas within the Knitted Panel, causing a
raised area of fabric.
see also - Gore, Racked, Three dimensional
C
Cambox
This unit is made up of electronic selection units, having two
selecting points for knit, tuck, three way technique, transfer, and
receive. The selection made at this point passes through a cam
track, cams are machined metal plates attached to a cam plate. The
control of these is from an electronic step motor, which controls the
presser cams and stitch cams which alternate in the direction of the
carriage. These are for drawing the needle down to pull more or less
yarn into the needle hook to form a different size of knitted loop. On
the CMS range of machines the number of these camboxes can vary
to the model i.e. CMS 411.6 has two joined camboxes with two
knitting systems, this can be split into two separate camboxes with
a knitting system in each. CMS 433.6 has two joined camboxes with
a six knitting systems, this can be split into two separate camboxes
with three knitting systems.
see also - Knitting system, Cams
These are machined metal plates attached to a cam plate. The
control of these is from an electronic step motor, which controls the
presser cams and stitch cams which alternate in the direction of the
carriage. These are for drawing the needle down to pull more or less
yarn into the needle hook to form a different size of knitted loop.
see also - Cambox, Knitting system
This unit is connected to the main drive belt on the CMS machine.
The support and weight is taken by needle bearings, which run on
carriage rails front and rear, these run the full length of the machine.
Carriage bows which span front to rear, keep this unit in the correct
position for the support of the camboxes which are held above each
needlebed. Held between the top of these carriage bows is the feeder
selection unit. This unit has full movement over the whole needlebed
by traversing the complete width of the machine from both directions,
also with the use of the Stoll CMS RCR (rapid carriage return) a
substantial increase in production can be made.
see also - Carriage Rails, Carriage Bow, Feeder Selection, Needle
Bed, RCR
These are to be found at each side of the carriage, supporting the
front and rear sections. Connected at the top of both is the feeder
selection unit which also plays an important role in the knitting
process.
see also - Carriage, Feeder selection, Cambox
The direction in which the carriage is being driven by the main drive
belt. The carriage can travel the full length of the machine from either
side, also within a selected needle area, known on the Stoll CMS
machine as RCR (rapid carriage return).
see also - Carriage, Selected Needle Area, Main Drive Belt, RCR
These are situated at each corner of the Carriage and supports and
guides this unit on the Carriage Rails.
Machined metal supports that are fitted to the front and rear of the
CMS machine. The main purpose of these is to allow free movement
for the carriage to operate in either carriage direction or over a
selected needle area , known on the Stoll CMS machine as RCR
(rapid carriage return).
see also - Carriage, Carriage Direction, Selected Needle Area, RCR
A Sintral command used on a control line in a knitting program, used
by the designer or technician to instruct or explain about any
information needed about the design i.e. the code number of design,
colours that have to be knitted etc. All of these instructions will be
ignored by the machine whilst it is production. These instructions are
for the operator only.
see also - Sintral, Control line, Knitting program
A line number typed into the Sintral program to input new
instructions for the pattern, which would include positioning of the
design, feeder selection, number of knitted courses for the rib,
number of pattern repeats within the depth of the garment. The input
is very similar to adding a line into a computer program written in
BASIC.
In the Sintral Programme Counters are used for Rib and Length of
Garment Panels, Pattern Repeats, Sizes, any Instruction that a
number could be used. There are 2 types of counters used, RS
counters which there are 19 of these and #(hash) counters (locations
where a number is being stored, which controls the repetition of a
subroutine or cycle).
The knitted horizontal line of loops generated in the same traverse as
the carriage. The number of horizontally knitted loops generated in
the same traverse, would be according to the number of knitting
systems and feeders used, also if a jacquard is being produced i.e. 3
colour jacquard. The number of horizontally knitted loops generated
in the same traverse, would only be one line of loops consisting the 3
colours.
see also - Traverse, Carriage, Knitting systems, Feeder, Jacquard
Desktop software
Clear operating guideway. Several programs on different levels with
access at the same time. Precondition for languages with different
letters/characters, like within MS Windows you can have multiple
windows open at the same time.
A knitting selection generating a repeat all across the knitted panel
using a Sintral command.i.e.: the instruction DI. would mean :
D = Direct selection
I = knit
. = miss
Giving a selection across the knitting area of I.I.I.I.I.I. (knit/miss
knit/miss etc.).
E
Empty Row
One traverse of the carriage with all selection systems, cams,
feeders out of action. This is unavoidable within certain patterns, e.g.
cables, arans etc.
see also - Carriage, Traverse, Cams, Feeder
F
Fabric Swatch
A small section of knitted fabric produced for visual, tactile reference
and quality checks.
The location of this mechanism is situated beneath the needlebeds,
and consists of two rubber coated rollers one of which is in a fixed
position and turned by an electronically controlled motor. The second
roller or Pressure roller can be opened and closed. The fabric is
pretension during the reversal of the carriage movement and is
continually drawn down during the knitting process. The turning of the
roller is freely programmable during the operation of the machine.
The term used for knitting a garment by moving the selvedge loops
by narrowing or widening the knitted width. So saving on waste fabric
and also improving the overall appearance of the finished garment.
This type of fashioning can be produced on any of the CMS range of
machines.
see also - Shape, Narrowing, Widening, Selvedge, Selvedge Needles
This is a unit attached to the feeder rails. Its purpose is to deliver
each yarn at the correct angle to the needles to form perfect knitted
loops. Using the CMS machines RCR (rapid carriage return). The
possibility of knitting in selected areas with the feeders to form
unique designs that are only associated with the CMS range of
machines, leads to faster production and a wider range of design
ideas.
Machined metal rails that run over the needlebed width, there are four
double rails. Attached to these rails are up to 16 yarn feeders, which
are moved by the feeder selection units, they can be dropped and
picked up at any position, or anywhere within the selected needle
area according to the design.
see also - Needle Bed, Feeder, Feeder selection, Selected Needle
Area
This unit is supported between the carriage bows, and can be
switched on and off at any position along the feeder rails. This
information is contained in the Sintral programme, and serves to
control the operating path of the yarn feeders.
see also - Carriage bow, Sintral, Feeder rails
This is made using only one needle bed, then knitting selected
needles to a set design layout. Using various coloured yarns
selected in different knitting systems, creating pictures or motif out of
the coloured loops.
see also - Float loop, Traverse, Carriage, Jacquard
Also known as a missed loop, this is made by a length (or lengths)
of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the
same course that are not in adjacent Wales thus creating a held loop
with the nonselected needles. This principle is used in the knitting of
float jacquards (also known as single bed jacquard), where two or
more colours are knitted in one course of jacquard to create knitted
pictures or small designs that repeat across the fabric.
see also - Wales, Course, Held loop, Float jacquard
This is a command used in a Sintral control program. Which is an
area of control lines. It can be given a name and used in a similar
way, to a gosub routine used in BASIC.
see also - Sintral, Control line
G
Gore
Knitting extra areas of Fabric (courses), creating more intricate and
interesting designs. This will utilize the Stoll CMS machines RCR
(rapid carriage return) to its utmost.
see also - RCR, Course
H
Held loop
A needle that is not selected within the knitted course delaying the
clearing of this loop over one or more courses giving different design
possibilities. This principle is also used in the knitting of float
jacquards (also known as single bed jacquard), where two or more
colours are knitted in one course of jacquard to create knitted
pictures or small designs that repeat across the fabric.
see also - Wales, Courses, Float loop, Float jacquard
J
Jacquard
The knitting of selected needles which produce various loops using
coloured yarns to create interesting designs i.e. (pictures, patterns,
motifs). These designs can be produced to be more intricate by
knitting more colours per course, by utilizing the CMS machines
eight feeder rails and up to 16 feeders.
JSA (Jacquard Structure automatic)
This is a preparation of the knitting program with the highest degree
of automation. The user illustrates the design that is required to knit,
in the way of loop icons to design directly on the screen. The Stoll
Sirix provides in stages for the operator the information for the
completed program for the CMS machine.
see also - Loop icon, VSD
K
Knitted Panel
An area of fabric knitted to the garment size required i.e. front, back
and sleeve.
Instructions for the control of the machine. i.e. knitting information for
feeders, takedown, pattern layout, machine speed etc. The CMS
machine uses the well known Sintral programming language, which
is based on the BASIC computer language and is very easy to use
i.e. R=knit, F=tuck, 0=nonselect, <<=direction of carriage etc.
see also - Carriage, Feeder
Knitting system
This is an area within the cambox which is the same front and rear,
and is made up of electronic selection units, having two selecting
points for knit, tuck, three way technique, transfer, and receive. The
selection made at this point passes through a cam track, cams are
machined metal plates attached to a cam plate. The control of these
is from an electronic step motor, which controls the presser cams
and stitch cams which alternate in the direction of the carriage.
These are for drawing the needle down to pull more or less yarn into
the needle hook to form a different size of knitted loop. On the CMS
range of machines the number of these knitting systems can vary to
the model i.e. CMS 411.6 has two knitting systems which can be
split into two camboxes with one system in each. CMS 433.6 has
six knitting systems which can be split into two camboxes with three
systems in each.
see also - Cambox
L
Loop icon
These are small images of knitted loops. Either in loop notation, or
graphic visualization of the loop. The type of loop is selected and
then placed within a design area on the Stoll Sirix design system, to
allow the easy input of structure or jacquard patterns, through the
VSD/JSA programming.
see also - VSD, JSA, Jacquard
M
Main Drive Belt
This is situated at the rear of the CMS machine and is driven by an
electronical motor. On to this belt is clamped the carriage, so that it
can be driven over the full width of the needle bed. Giving the CMS
machine its versitility of the computer using the RCR (rapid carriage
return) to greatly increase production times for the knitted garment.
see also - RCR, Carriage, Needle Bed
N
Narrowing
The transfering of the selvedge loops inwards to create the desired
shape and size of the knitted sleeve or body panel.
see also - Fashioning, Transfering, Selvedge needles, Widening,
Shape
There are two, one at the front of the machine which is fixed and the
other at the rear which can be moved up to two inches in either
direction from its ground postion, the instruction for this comes from
the Sintral control programme. The purpose of the needle bed is to
acommodate the knitting elements. These are held within a
machined slot (known as a trick), for there support during the knitting
process.
P
Pattern Memory
PA: Is the Sintral instruction for the pattern pack arrangement also
known as the pattern memory.
R
Racked
This is the term given where the rear needle bed is moved to the left
or right. Up to 100mm (4 inches) i.e 48 needles on 12 gauge are
possible on the CMS, from a Sintral command within a knitting
programme. Or the term racked stitch can be given to the movement
of a knitted stitch to the left or right on a fabric swatch.
The movement of the needlebed in either direction, to create a racked
pattern, or for the transferring of stitches to form cables, aran and
lace designs. On the CMS machine it as a step free racking on the
rear needle bed over 100mm. (4 inches), i.e. 48 needles on 12
gauge. The racking position is controlled by a measuring device that
takes precise account of the yarn and elasticity. Where required for
particular types of fabric, the racking unit can be programmed to
stretch the stitch, by over and reverse racking.
see also - Racked, Needle Bed, Transfering
RCR (Rapid Carriage Return)
On the CMS range of machines the length of the carriage stroke is
regulated automatically by the computer, to give maximum efficiency
on fabric produced - thus, the stroke is automatically matched to the
width of the fabric or of the motif within it. The carriage can reverse its
travel at any point on the needlebed. It only runs over needles that
are actually doing something. The speed is infinitely variable and can
be programmed from standstill to its maximum of 1.3 metres/second.
S
Selected Needle Area
The Sintral command SEN=1-200. Selected needle area = needle 1
to needle 200 only to be selectable for knitting commands. Within
this area the carriage stroke is regulated automatically by the
computer, to give maximum efficiency on the fabric produced, the
stroke is automatically matched to the width of the fabric or of the
motif within it. The carriage can reverse its travel at any point on the
needlebed. It only runs over needles that are actually doing
something. The speed is infinitely variable and can be programmed
from standstill to its maximum of 1.3 metres/second.
see also - Carriage, Sintral, Needle Bed
Selvedge
The edge of the knitting fabric
see also - Fashioning, Narrowing, Widening, Shape
Selvedge Needles
Needles that knit the last few needles of the knitted fabric.
see also - Fashioning, Narrowing, Widening, Shape
Shape
When knitting and pressing off loops in set areas to create a rough
shaped panel, so as to save on yarn during the knitting process.
Much more saving on yarn would be achieved by fashioning the
fabric.
see also - Fashioning, Transfering, Selvedge Needles, Selvedge,
Widening
A language developed by Stoll for easy input of knitting instructions
by the technicians. This language is based on the BASIC computer
programming language.
T
Three dimensional
Fabric which has been knitted into the garment in selected areas
creating a pronounced visual effect. Creating more intricate and
interesting designs, which can be achieved easily using the Stoll
Sirix design system.
see also - Applique, Float loop, Held loop
The process of moving loops, wholly or in part from the position in
which they were made to other needles for the purpose of fashioning
or design. The advantage on the CMS range of machines, is that you
can transfer in both directions simultaneously, in any system whilst
double bed knitting in any following system. On the CMS machine it
as a step free racking on the rear needle bed over 100mm. (4
inches), i.e. 48 needles on 12 gauge.
see also - Fashioning, Needle Bed
The movement of the carriage in any one direction.
see also - Carriage
V
VSD (Virtual Stitch Design)
Knitting pattern design with authentic appearing knitted stitches on
SIRIX. No special know-how in knitting technique necessary to see
the knitted fabric simulation, as no ready-to-knit programs are
simulated but the fabric is drawn. What you see is what you knit.
MODULES do the job for you!
see also - JSA
W
Wale
A column of loops along the length of the fabric.
The increased selection of the selvedge needles to extend the width
of the knitted panel.
see also - Fashioning, Selvedge, Selvedge Needles, Transfering,
Shape
Y
Yarn Carriers
Yarn carriers are the unit that is threaded up to feed in the yarn to
the correct position to be able to form a new loop.
The position at which the yarn carrier is left after knitting its course of
loops.
© 1999 Stoll GmbH & Co., Reutlingen
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